Holland Roads: The Path to Modern Food Culture and Tradition
**This addition will be used as an assignment, hopefully adding some nice insight to my previous post**
When I heard the news that we were going to Holland for one of our study trips, I rejoiced! Although I was upset I didn't get to go as an undergrad while abroad, the whole "coffee shop" and "special brownie" allure didn't really do it for me. Luckily, I was getting a chance to go on a food adventure, virtually reefer-free (I can only speak for myself...).
The journey began on a fishing boat floating in the Wadden Sea, a southeastern portion of the North Sea. Our hosts made it clear that their work was neither easy nor for the weak of heart. Fishing is a huge industry for the northern portion of the country, and is reflected in the inhabitant's diets. Whether fresh, cooked, cured, or pickled, these people love their seafood. The producers we stayed with have a protected method of fishing, one that is sustainable and in balance with the delicate ecosystem of the Wadden Sea. Unfortunately, this specific way of fishing has also made it difficult to be prosperous in recent years. From hand-picking oysters, mussels, and cockles, to fishing mullet in specially designed nets to reduce by-catch, all of their work produced an excellent product, but at a price that seemed too steep to the outside consumer. This story shows that the desire to keep sustainable tradition alive in Holland is certainly welcome but not always wildly successful. Another producer, with a slightly sour outlook, seemed to have better luck.
(Trying my luck at seafood harvesting at low tide in the Wadden Sea)
Oos Kesbeke, owner of Kesbeke pickles realized a problem with the cocktail onion a few years back: people in the Netherlands weren't eating them anymore. He remembers that as a child, every household had at least one jar on stand by. Had the Dutch lost the taste for the baby onion, or had they just forgotten it? To find out, they tried focusing their marketing efforts on their onions. They were met with great success. He explained that to him, memory and taste have a very strong connection. He just had to remind people of how tasty they were, and they would begin to appreciate them again. Boy, those little onions were fine, as were all the pickled products. Oos used marketing to get his point across, while Jacco, a honey producer on the island of Texel, relied on word of mouth to promote his product. Small black bees naturally inhabit the island, but are being crowded out by other species. Jacco would come at the request of neighbors to remove black bee hives and transplant them to safer homes. The entire island moves at a slower pace than the mainland and Jacco likes it that way. It allowes him to produce honey in a respectful and sustainable fashion, a way in which Texel folk seem to really enjoy.
(Secret outdoor pickling in action, complete with floating leaves and pungent aroma)
(Texel Island's small, black bees, encouraged to come out and play with a little smoke)
At this point of the story, Holland may seem like the aged great-grandpa that complains when cabbage goes up 10 cents (read: mine). This is only part of Holland's new food legacy. They, along with many countries of the North are embracing technology and applying it to food ways in spectacular applications. Zilte Zeekool, a saline farm, showed us that traditional produce, like potatoes and strawberries, can grow and even thrive in semi-saline environments, In a country that has plenty of water control issues, this is a huge accomplishment on the production side of farming. We also had the opportunity to dine at Instock, a restaurant that only serves meals made from supermarket waste. While this initially sounded unappealing, the team explained to us that they receive food that has passed its "best sold" or "used by" date, not the expiration. The food was ironically enough very fresh and imaginative. Overall, their case for food waste management was compelling and inspiring.
(Lettuce being grown in brackish water on the Zilte Zeekool test site)
(Salmon starter at Instock, followed by two more great dishes)
Street food was probably my favorite portion of the trip on a gastronomic level. The Netherlands are a very inclusive society, making for an eclectic melting pot of eating choices. I was told by a friend that I needed to try stroopwafels while I was there and they didn't disappoint. Even though it was rather warm (we were told we brought the unseasonably high temperatures from Italy), the toasty, caramel filled waffle crisps hit the spot. The pickled herring...not so much. Although I'm normally a fan of fish in any form it's given to me, something about it (maybe its high fat content) didn't sit well with me. Croquettes were also on the menu. In Holland they are traditionally prepared with beef, but I opted for shrimp. The texture is not at all what you're expecting but also isn't unpleasant. Although not technically street food, I also had a taro bubble tea and shared lunch with classmates at an Indonesian restaurant. The mixture of old, traditional standbys and new ethnic choices gave the Netherlands high marks in my metropolitan mental food log.
(Funky fresh pickled herring, certainly not my favorite pickled food)
(Shrimp croquettes, offered with soft bread and yellow mustard)
The producers all were very memorable to me. Our guide, Jacqueline, a former student from our university, plainly explained that the Dutch tend to be rude and that it is just an unavoidable part of their nature. While I did find this to be true sometimes (mostly while biking and on the fishing boat), I think a more positive way to spin this statement is to liken it to extreme passion. All of the producers, from the brazen fishermen, to the shy brew master, to the boisterous pickle producer, made it very clear that their products were their life, and that they wanted to share that love. Their sense of humor also took some time to settle with the group, leaving us uncomfortable and later in stitches for the rest of the trip. I do believe the oddness becomes them.
(Our hosts (and cooks) at Isola Bella B&B on Texel Island)
An idea of the Netherland's food scene should be coming better into focus now, lovers of tradition looking for ways to incorporate them into a modern pace. This mindset is perhaps the strongest in the youth of Amsterdam. They hold the record currently for the largest Slow Food Youth Network and are arguably the most active chapter. Their voice is heard through means of demonstration, social media, and presentations done the world over. These youth members recognize that the food culture they want to experience will not just materialize, it has to be fought for. Although most youth movements tend to be met with opposition by elders, my earlier stories make it clear that all ages and backgrounds in Holland seem to be on-board with this idea. The youth, in this case, are the voice for a people who want to preserve all that their land has to offer.
At the end of our trip, I have to say I was really surprised. I don't know what I was expecting to find in terms of a food culture in Holland. I did expect the traditional aspects, but was pleased to see the passion behind keeping these traditions alive. The technological advances also did not surprise me, but the care and hope they had for their work was inspiring. Lastly, it was fabulous to see a youth network that was so invested in the future of their food. For a country so concentrated on sustainability, they were sad to see that food had not been considered. Fast-forward to the present day and you find a culture that works with, not against, their resources in a sustainable and passionate way. Just remember, if someone offers you a "special cookie", it's not just made with their fantastic butter.
